Sometimes you need a material with some stretch in it... That's when spandex can be useful. These materials, depending on the manufacture and fiber blend, can stretch up to several times their original length along one or both axes of the cloth.

Lycra? Spandex? What's the Difference?

Both names, Lycra and spandex, are used to describe materials, often interchangably. What, then, is the difference?

"Spandex" is a type of synthetic polymer used to create the flexible and expanding fibers used in the material. "Lycra" is the trade name that DuPont uses for their particular formula of Spandex that they sell to the textile industry. The name Lycra seems to be supplanting the proper generic name spandex as a term for the material (much to DuPont's lawyers' frustration).

This is not to say that all Lycra and Spandex fabrics are the same. Cotton, nylon, and other fibers can be combined to produce a composite material; in fact, these mixed fabrics are generally more useful in fursuiting since they will help absorb moisture.

Advantages and Disadvantages

Unlike fur fabrics, Lycra will add stretch to a costume. (A related material, stretch velour, can be used if a more "furry" texture is desired.) Despite its flexibility, the material is still quite durable, and will wear well for long periods of time if properly cared for.

However, true Lycra does not absorb liquids. This can be problematic in two cases: First, if it is in the lining of the suit, it traps moisture against the skin rather than wicking it away from the skin. Second, if the Lycra is being used as a base for gluing, as might be the case in a foam bodysuit, the glue will tend not to soak in the fibers and you will not get good adherence.

These concerns can be eliminated by using a cotton-spandex blend. Such mixed materials are often easily obtained at local fabric stores. Check the bolt label to be sure you get a blend with cotton; a blend of spandex and another synthetic doesn't help with the absorption problem. Cotton-spandex unitards can usually be purchased, pre-made, from dance supply stores; these work well as the basis for costume undersuits.

Working with Spandex

Spandex is a bit more difficult to sew than standard non-stretch ("static") materials. When cutting the pattern and sewing seams in spandex, always be careful to ensure that the fabric isn't stretching (and thus distorting its shape) while you are working with it.

In order to properly sew seams in spandex, you need a serger. This is a special type of sewing machine which sews edges together using multiple threads; the result is a seam that can stretch with the fabric.

It is possible to sew spandex using a standard sewing machine, instead. Use a zig-zag stitch in order to get a good hold on the spandex, so that the seam's tensions aren't pulling along a single line. This seam will adequately hold the spandex, but it won't have the same stretchy properties.

Spandex can also be glued to other materials. This works best with cotton-spandex mixed fabrics, where the fibers of the cotton will help absorb the glue and form a firmer bond. Other glues can still be effective, as they permeate the weave of the material to form a bond on a larger scale.